A touch of orange

In general orange hue is a warm and a happy color. It comes across slightly more intense than yellow and less aggressive then red. Very strong peacoat in orange supported by a touch orange only in the belt making this combination wearable. Great use of accessories such as the hat and the bracelets. As you can see the gentleman toned down the orange with shades of black which other wise would be a disaster.

Touch of orange in the accessories to bring some energy into a very classic double-breasted cream jacket with brass buttons. I would have used another pocket square with a dark navy base and maybe a touch orange in the pattern. The pattern could be a paisley or polka-dots.

Well balanced bright orange pants with a navy velvet jacket. Good choice of shoes, not taking the attention from the pants. Nice touch of orange with the wristband of the watch and the tie with small navy dots. The pocket square should have been something more basic such as a hand-rolled linen in plain white, maybe with light blue piping.

"Le Smoking" of Yves Saint Laurent from the great eyes of Helmut Newton

 

The Algerian-born designer Yves Saint Laurent changed the womenswear world with "le smoking", a tuxedo suit of velvet or wool—black-tie menswear reinterpreted for the female form. Helmut Newton captured the power of this androgynous stance in 1975 for French Vogue.

1930' Laurence Fellows Illustration

In the 1930s that Fellows found the niche that would shape the lives of dandies for the next 80 years: fashion illustration. Though he contributed to Vanity Fair, McClure’s, and The American Magazine, among other publications, it was men’s fashion where he was most in demand, and Apparel Arts, aimed at the tailoring trade, and Esquire were his showcases.

Safe & Stylish

Traditional tailoring with a touch of pink polka dot pocket square to change the mood.

Italian style of modern classic

It is a very well balanced look completed with a gold Rolex. The colors, patterns, fabrics and accessories speak in silence rather than scream. However I would have preferred a gold buckle for the double-monks to complete better this look.

Break the monotony

Even though the frequency is right of the usage of burgundy, I still feel that it is too much and too easy. The body of the contrast collar, the regimental tie, stitching details of the jacket, pocket square, cuff links, the tassels of the fringed loafer are all burgundy. I would have inserted green or purple to break the monotonousness of the burgundy. Also, unless he is wearing jeans or sports pants, the shoes are unacceptable under a suit.  

With The Amazing Ciro Paone, Founder of "Kiton"

Kiton is a luxury, bespoke clothing company co-founded in 1956 as CIPA in Naples, Italy by Ciro Paone, a fifth-generation fabric merchant, and Antonio Carola. Launched in 1968, the brand gets its name from the Greek word chiton (costume), a sewn garment worn by the Greeks that the Romans later called a tunic. It is a great pleasure to know Mr. Paone and to have worked with him.

Bespoke Tailoring Travel Kit

This suit case is custom made to meet the specific needs of a tailor. Today there are many good tailors to choose from with similar levels of quality. Therefore there are other factors then just the quality of the garment as it is a given today. Whoever provides better service, has the competitive advantage in this tough world. As many customers are very loyal to their tailors, they may require their assistance while they are on business trips, away on special occasions or even on holiday. Hence being mobile is a must for any good tailor in today's world. Therefore it is a necessity to own a personalized suit case such as the above to present the fitting jacket, new fabric options, sample collar shapes, order sheets, button and lining options etc.

Ties

Collars & Cuffs

Black vs. White Tie

White tie is the most formal evening dress code in Western fashion. It is worn to ceremonial occasions such as state dinners in some countries, as well as to very formal balls and evening weddings. The chief components for men are the black dress coat commonly known as an evening tailcoat, white bow tie, white waistcoat and starched wing collar shirt, while women wear a suitable dress for the occasion, such as a ball gown. As evening dress, white tie is traditionally considered correct only after 6:00 p.m. although some etiquette authorities allow for it any time after dark even if that means prior to 6:00 p.m. The equivalent formal attire for daytime events is called morning dress. The semi-formal evening counterpart of white tie is black tie.

The Tuxedo

In the 1860s, the increasing popularity of outdoor activities among the British middle and upper classes led to a corresponding increase in the popularity of the casual lounge suit as a country alternative to the more formal day wear that was traditionally worn in town. Men also sought a similar alternative to the formal evening tailcoat worn every evening. The earliest tuxedo jackets were of the same black material as the dress coat with one, two or no buttons and a shawl collar faced in satin or ribbed silk. By the turn of the twentieth century the peaked lapel was equally popular and the one-button model had become standard. When trousers were sold with the jacket they were of the same material. Edwardian dandies often opted for Oxford grey or a very dark blue for their evening wear. By World War I, the grey option had fallen out of favour but the "midnight blue" alternative became increasingly popular and rivalled black by the mid 1930s. Notch lapels, imported from the ordinary business suit, were a brief vogue in the 1920s. A single stripe of braid covering the outseam on each leg was an occasional variation at first, but became standard by the 1930s.

The American Cut Suit

Its distinguished characteristics are single went in the back, higher armhole, straight lines, flap pockets and natural (almost no padded) shoulders giving you softer silhouette. Also these suits were very baggy. In its original form this suit is the least stylish. With time American suits became more cut to the shape of the body, included shoulder padding and became more stylish.

The Italian Cut Suit

Italian style can be further divided into Roman, Neapolitan and Milanese styles. Italian cut suits fit very well to tall, slim, flat belly men. The jackets originally did not have any vents but today two vents are common in Italian suits. They are shorter and tight-fitting and shoulders are padded while lapel notches and buttons are positioned higher than in British and American jackets. Pockets are flapless and jackets have pronounced V-shape. Opposite of British style suits, Italians prefer to use lighter cloths, higher gorge lines, and less overall padding. Pants have tapered waist and hips are snug to the body.

The English Cut Suit

Also called British Traditional. These suits are cut closer to the body. They have slightly narrower and defined shoulders with higher armhole. Coats have two side vents and they can be single or double-breasted. British cut jackets tend to use lower gorge lines which is the seam joining the collar and the lapel, heavier cloth, stiffer chest canvas, thicker shoulder pads, and more structure to the jacket. Trousers are cut generously with high waist and two or three pleats but they have more shape than American cut trousers. British suits will give you more contour and your look will be more fitted. It is accepted truth that the home of the traditional British suit is in Savile Row. Placed in London’s Mayfair, Savile Row is the home of custom suit makers and is the place to go when searching for highest tailoring excellence. These type of suits are ideal for average built men since they are not too boxy nor too slim.